Monsoon is here — and Upper Mustang and Dolpo are the treks to do now
While the rest of Nepal gets wet, the rain-shadow north stays dry: roughly 30 mm of rain versus Pokhara's 300 mm.
Key facts
- June–September monsoon soaks most of Nepal — but the rain-shadow trans-Himalayan valleys stay dry and trekkable.
- Upper Mustang, Dolpo and Nar Phu sit north of the main range and get a fraction of the rain.
- These are restricted areas: special permit + licensed guide + minimum two trekkers.
While the monsoon rolls into the Annapurna and Everest foothills from June, it barely reaches the high desert valleys behind the main Himalaya. Shielded by 8,000-metre walls, Upper Mustang, Dolpo and Nar Phu lie in a rain shadow — which makes them the smart choice for summer trekking when the rest of Nepal is wet and leech-ridden.
| Region | Why it works | Permit type |
|---|---|---|
| Upper Mustang | Rain-shadow desert; walled city of Lo Manthang | Restricted ($500/10 days) |
| Upper Dolpo | Remote trans-Himalaya; Phoksundo Lake | Restricted |
| Nar Phu | Hidden Tibetan-Buddhist valleys off Manang | Restricted |
What this means for trekkers
Summer is the only way to combine a Himalayan trek with the lush, green, post-rain lowlands — and to have these culturally extraordinary valleys nearly to yourself. The one wrinkle is access: flights to Jomsom (the Mustang gateway) and Juphal (Dolpo) can still be delayed by cloud, so build a buffer day. Time Upper Mustang for May’s Tiji festival or go deep in the quiet summer.
Our take
Don’t fight the monsoon on the Annapurna or Everest trails in July — go north of the mountains instead. The skies are big, the trails are dry, and the Tibetan-Buddhist culture is the most intact in Nepal.
See our Upper Mustang trek, the Upper Mustang permit guide, and more monsoon trekking options.
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