Upper Mustang Trek — 12 Days

Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel. Evening briefing covering Upper Mustang's restricted area regulations, the mandatory Rs 500/day Upper Mustang Restricted Area permit (one of Nepal's most expensive), and cultural etiquette in the ancient Lo Kingdom.

Morning flight to Pokhara, then connect to the short but spectacular mountain flight to Jomsom in the upper Kali Gandaki valley. Jomsom is the administrative headquarters of Mustang district — Annapurna and Dhaulagiri frame the horizon. Upper Mustang restricted area permit checked here.

Easy walk north along the Kali Gandaki floodplain to Kagbeni, the gateway to Upper Mustang. This medieval walled village with its red-painted gompa and ancient streets marks the beginning of the restricted zone — checkpost here. The wind typically picks up strongly by midday.

Enter the Upper Mustang restricted area from Kagbeni checkpost. The trail climbs steeply out of the Kali Gandaki gorge onto arid, wind-sculpted plateaus with extraordinary eroded badlands. Chele perches on a cliff edge with commanding valley views.

Cross the Taklam La pass (3,624 m) through wind-eroded canyons of red and ochre rock — the lunar landscape is utterly unlike the rest of Nepal. Samar is a compact village sheltered in a side valley with apple orchards and a small monastery.

Cross the Nyi La pass (4,010 m) with sweeping views of the Mustang plateau, then descend to Syangbochen and continue to Ghami. Ghami is notable for its long mani wall — one of the longest in the world at over 400 metres — and a well-preserved 15th-century monastery.

Cross the Ghami La pass (3,760 m) and descend to the Charang Valley, passing the cliff-hanging monastery of Ghami before the final climb to Lo Manthang. The walled city appears suddenly from the barren plateau — its whitewashed ramparts, four-storey palace, and four major gompas are breathtaking.

Full day to explore Lo Manthang, capital of the former Kingdom of Lo. Visit Thubchen Gompa (15th century, magnificent murals), Jampa Gompa, the Raja's Palace (Rajhas still reside here), and Chodey Gompa on the northern wall. The town is a living museum of Tibetan culture.

Return south from Lo Manthang through the same magnificent arid landscape, choosing alternative trail variants where possible. The afternoon light on the red cliffs and white chortens is especially beautiful. Overnight in Ghami.

Long descent back through Samar and the badlands to Kagbeni, retracing the outward route with stronger legs and clearer mountain views. Exit the Upper Mustang restricted area at Kagbeni checkpost — permit stamped.

Short walk back to Jomsom along the Kali Gandaki floodplain. Afternoon flight to Pokhara (weather permitting — always book an early flight as afternoon winds ground aircraft). Evening at leisure in Pokhara.

Morning flight back to Kathmandu. Half-day free for last-minute shopping in Thamel or visiting Boudhanath. Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward or departure flight. Your Upper Mustang odyssey ends.