The Himalayan trek that looks like another planet
Ochre canyons, eroded cliffs, ancient sky-caves and a walled medieval capital — Upper Mustang is the most otherworldly landscape in Nepal, and one of the few you can trek right through the monsoon.
Most people picture Nepal as snow peaks and green foothills. Then they see Upper Mustang and assume it is a different country — or a different planet. North of the Annapurna massif, in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, lies a high desert of wind-carved ochre cliffs, slot canyons and whitewashed medieval towns that looks more like the Tibetan plateau, or Mars, than anywhere else in Nepal. It is the country's most otherworldly trek.
Key facts
- A trans-Himalayan high desert in the rain shadow
- Centred on Lo Manthang, a walled former kingdom
- Famous for sky-caves carved into the cliffs
- The permit is now US$50 per day, and it is monsoon-trekkable
Why it looks alien
The same Himalayan wall that soaks the rest of Nepal blocks the rain here, leaving a parched, lunar landscape of red and grey rock eroded into fins, towers and caves. Thousands of mysterious man-made caves honeycomb the cliffs near Chhoser, some still holding ancient murals. At the heart of it sits Lo Manthang, a walled town of monasteries and a royal palace that has barely changed in 600 years. Walking here feels like stepping off the map.
| Feature | Upper Mustang |
|---|---|
| Landscape | Arid red-rock desert, slot canyons |
| Culture | Tibetan-Buddhist; walled city of Lo |
| Sky-caves | Thousands, near Chhoser |
| Best season | Year-round incl. monsoon (rain shadow) |
The trek that breaks the mould
Beyond the scenery, Upper Mustang is special for two practical reasons. It is one of the very few Nepal regions you can trek through the summer monsoon, because the rain never reaches it — perfect when the rest of the country is under cloud. And since late 2025 the restricted-area permit shifted to US$50 per person per day, making shorter trips far more affordable than the old flat fee. It remains a guided, restricted area — which is part of what has preserved its astonishing culture.
What this means for you
If you want a trek that looks like nowhere else on Earth — and one you can do even in July or August — Upper Mustang is it. We run it as a 12- to 15-day journey through Lo Manthang and the sky-caves, with the flights, permit and guide arranged. It is the most surreal landscape Nepal has, and it is open when almost nothing else is.
Source: Travel Himalaya Nepal.
Source: Travel Himalaya Nepal
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